Sunday 15 July 2012

Egypt: Beyond Expectations Part 3 - Abu Simbel


Our day began well before sunrise.

I won’t tell you how early for fear of scaring you off, but with strict visiting hours in place at Abu Simbel we had no choice but to stumble with heavy eyes onto the bus.
Great Temple of Ramesse II, Abu Simbel. Photo/K.Segedin
Great Temple of Ramesse II, Abu Simbel. Photo/K.Segedin
Temple to Nefertari, Abu Simbel. Photo/K.Segedin
Temple to Nefertari, Abu Simbel. Photo/K.Segedin
Brightly colour original paint still covers the temple at Kom Ombo. Photo/K.Segedin
Brightly colour original paint still covers the temple at Kom Ombo. Photo/K.Segedin

As soon as my bum hit my seat I was fast asleep. When I awoke we had arrived at our meeting point where dozens of coaches met to pick up their armed guards before joining the convoy to Abu Simbel near the Nubian boarder with Sudan.

After tucking into our packed breakfast boxes there was time for a little more beauty sleep before we arrived at our destination.

Abu Simbel is home to two of the most well-known ancient temples in Egypt. Built by Ramesses II to show the strength of his kingdom to the Nubian people, they are a must-see for any visitor to the country.

Walking down a curved path around the side of a steep hill, the Great Temple of Ramesse II gradually came into view.

Breathtaking is an expression used a lot in describing travel hotspots, but there really is no better word for it.

Four 20m high statues of the pharaoh decorate the outside of the temple towering over the flocks of people below.
A short walk from the main temple is the smaller temple dedicated to the goddess Hathor and Ramesses II’s chief consort,Nefertari. Surrounding the entrance are six 10m high statues of the king and his queen.

You’re free to wander through the inside of the two temples (no photos though!) where you could easily spend hours taking in all the ornate wall paintings and carvings.

It was early morning and already the temperature was climbing well into the 20s. Thankfully a refreshing cool breeze blew in off the Aswan Dam.

The still blue waters of the dam are a reminder that today the temples are actually 65m above their original location.

In the 1960s, 50 countries worked tirelessly to dismantle then rebuild Abu Simbel piece by piece to make way for the new dam.

I don’t know how long we spent taking photos, but by the end of the visit we each had hundreds of pictures on our cameras.

After heading back to the boat we took a tour of the nearby Kom Ombo temple.

Right on the banks of the Nile, Kom Ombo is unique in terms of Egyptian temples because it’s essential two separate ones stuck together. The southern half is dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek, god of fertility and creator of the world while the northern part to the falcon god Haroeris.

Detailed carvings at Kom Ombo temple. Photo/K.Segedin
Detailed carvings at Kom Ombo temple. Photo/K.Segedin

One wall that grabbed my attention was covered pictures and hieroglyphs describing ancient Egyptian medical practices including some rather detailed ones depicting childbirth in the ancient world – ouch!

By mid-afternoon we were back relaxing onboard and sailing up the Nile towards Edfu and Luxor – this is the life!

After watching the sunset from the comforts of the ship deck, we settled in for a dip in the hot pool – perfect with the cool night breeze blowing from the Nile – and a couple of drinks with our group and Trip Leader.

This really is the best way to see Egypt!